D3D Pro 3D Printer Assembly Instructions

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, cut two (2) 100mm long pieces of 22AWG Wire.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, strip approximately 1cm of insulation off of both ends of the 22AWG Wire.

Place an appropriately sized Ferrule onto the end of the stripped 22AWG Wire.

Using the Ferrule Crimper, crimp the Ferrule onto the wire.

Use the Wire Strippers/Cutters to cut off any excess 22AWG Wire that is poking through the end of the Ferrule.

Repeat the above steps to crimp another Ferrule of a different color to the end of the other 22AWG Wire.

Using the Dupont Crimper, crimp Dupont Female Pin Connector part(s) onto the exposed ends of the 22AWG Wire.

Insert the both of the Dupont Female Pin Connector ends of the 22AWG Wire into a 2 Pin Female Dupont Connector.

The RAMPS 1.4 Board to RAMPS 1.4 Board 24v Power Custom Wires are complete.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, cut two (2) 200mm long pieces of 22AWG Wire.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, strip approximately 1cm of insulation off of both ends of each of the 22AWG Wire lengths.

Place an appropriately sized Ferrule onto one end of each of the stripped 22AWG Wire lengths.

Using the Ferrule Crimper, crimp the Ferrule part(s) onto each 22AWG Wire.

Use the Wire Strippers/Cutters to cut off any excess 22AWG Wire that is poking through the ends of the Ferrule part(s).

Use the Dupont Crimper to crimp on an appropriately sized Fork Terminal part(s) to the exposed ends of each 22AWG Wire.

The RAMPS 1.4 Board to Solid State Relay (SSR) 24v Signal Custom Wires are complete.

Hello World! forked terminal to ferrule/bare

Hello World! forked terminal → forked terminal (short), forked terminal → bare, forked terminal → bare

Put the heatsinks on the drivers.

Put the (CORRECTLY ORIENTED) drivers into the RAMPS.

Align the RAMPS and Mega and press together.

Insert the smart adapter into the RAMPS.

Done

Plug the arduino into the PC with a USB cable.

Download the most recent firmware from the D3D Pro firmware repo.

Download and install Arduino IDE

Load the firmware into the Arduino IDE

Select your board from the boards menu at the top.

Click upload and wait for it to upload.

When it says 'Done Uploading' you’re done.

Download the raspberry pi imager.

Navigate to OctoPi

Insert the MicroSD card into the adapter.

Insert the adapter into your personal computer.

If using Wifi and not an ethernet connection, go into more details

Select the wireless networking option and put in your wifi credentials.

use the imager to download and flash the octopi image to the MicroSD card.

Hello World!

Hello World!

Zip tie the Mega/RAMPS

Zip tie power supply module

Zip tie the raspberry pie

Zip tie the SSR

Zip tie the GFCI

Insert the toggle switch into the side of the case

Hello World!

Hello World!

Hello World!

Hello World!

Hello World!

Hello World!

Hello World!

While following the Circular Saw manufacturer’s instructions, install the Cutoff Wheel into the Circular Saw.

Affix the Rebar Stake Stock Length into the Vise, leaving enough Rebar Stake Stock Length sticking out to make the cut.

Mark the 250mm length on the Rebar Stake Stock Length using the Measuring Tape and Permanent Marker. Make sure that there is enough space marked for the width of the Cutoff Wheel!

Using the Circular Saw, make the cut on the Rebar Stake Stock Length where previously marked.

Repeat the above steps for all of the needed lengths of Rebar Stake.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the Left Corner Connector part(s) and Right Corner Connector part(s).

Insert an M6 Thin Nut into the slot of the Left Corner Connector so that the hole of the M6 Thin Nut aligns with the hole in the Left Corner Connector.

While holding the M6 Thin Nut in place with a finger, insert an M6 x 20mm Screw into the hole of the Left Corner Connector.

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw in the M6 x 20mm Screw enough to hold the M6 x 20mm Screw and M6 Thin Nut in place. Leave room for the Rebar Stake to be inserted later.

Repeat the above steps for each of the three slots on the Left Corner Connector.

Repeat each of the above steps for the Left Corner Connector part(s), and Right Corner Connector part(s).

Insert one Rebar Stake into a slot on a Left Corner Connector.

Press the Rebar Stake down hard into the slot so that the part(s) are flush with the bottom of the slot. This step is important to ensure squareness in the frame.

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw down the M6 x 20mm Screw in against the Rebar Stake until it is tight. If the plastic of the Left Corner Connector begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

Insert the other end of the Rebar Stake into a Right Corner Connector and repeat the above steps to press and tighten down the Right Corner Connector.

Repeat the above steps so that there are two completed Rebar Stake part(s) with Left Corner Connector part(s) and Right Corner Connector part(s) on the ends.

Insert two Rebar Stake part(s) into the completed Rebar Stake part(s) from the previous step so that a square is formed.

Press the square together hard to seat the Left Corner Connector part(s) and Right Corner Connector part(s) onto the Rebar Stake part(s).

Tighten the four loose M6 x 20mm Screw part(s) down onto the Rebar Stake part(s) to complete the Universal Frame Top Top. As above, if the plastic of the Left Corner Connector part(s) or Right Corner Connector part(s) begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the Corner Connector part(s).

Insert an M6 Thin Nut into the slot of the Corner Connector so that the hole of the M6 Thin Nut aligns with the hole in the Corner Connector.

While holding the M6 Thin Nut in place with a finger, insert an M6 x 20mm Screw into the hole of the Corner Connector.

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw in the M6 x 20mm Screw enough to hold the M6 x 20mm Screw and M6 Thin Nut in place. Leave room for the Rebar Stake to be inserted later.

Repeat the above steps for each of the three slots on the Corner Connector.

Repeat each of the above steps for the Corner Connector part(s).

Insert one Rebar Stake into a slot on the Corner Connector.

Press the Rebar Stake down hard into the slot so that the part(s) are flush with the bottom of the slot. This step is important to ensure squareness in the frame.

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw down the M6 x 20mm Screw in against the Rebar Stake until it is tight. If the plastic of the Corner Connector begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

Insert the other end of the Rebar Stake into another Corner Connector and repeat the above steps to press and tighten down the Corner Connector.

Repeat the above steps so that there are two completed Rebar Stake part(s) with Corner Connector part(s) on the ends.

Insert two Rebar Stake part(s) into the completed Rebar Stake part(s) from the previous step so that a square is formed.

Press the square together hard to seat the Corner Connector part(s) onto the Rebar Stake part(s).

Tighten the four loose M6 x 20mm Screw part(s) down onto the Rebar Stake part(s) to complete the Universal Frame Base Base. As above, if the plastic of the Corner Connector part(s) begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

Orient the Universal Frame Top so that the open slots point upward.

Insert the four Rebar Stake part(s) into the slots of the Universal Frame Top.

Firmly press each Rebar Stake part(s) into the Universal Frame Top so that they are flush with the bottom of the slots in the Universal Frame Top.

Tighten down all of the remaining fasteners on the Universal Frame Top to secure the Rebar Stake part(s) in place. If the plastic of the Universal Frame Top begins to strain or crack, unscrew the fastener slightly to reduce the pressure.

Orient the Universal Frame Base so that the open slots point upward.

Insert the four Rebar Stake part(s) that are connected to the Universal Frame Top into the slots of the Universal Frame Base.

Firmly press the Universal Frame Top down onto the Universal Frame Base so that the Rebar Stake part(s) are properly seated.

Tighten down all of the remaining fasteners on the Universal Frame Base to secure the Rebar Stake part(s) in place. If the plastic of the Universal Frame Base begins to strain or crack, unscrew the fastener slightly to reduce the pressure.

The Universal Frame Module is complete.

Using the Scissors, cut four rectangles of Carbon Fiber Blanket to size (80mm x 300mm).

Set up the Sewing Machine and Sewing Thread by following the manufacturer’s instructions for the Sewing Machine.

Overlap/fold one rectangle of Carbon Fiber Blanket so that it forms a 40mm x 300mm rectangle.

Using the Sewing Machine, sew the 300mm long edges of the rectangle together. It should form a 300mm long sleeve.

Repeat the previous two steps for all of the remaining Carbon Fiber Blanket rectangles.

Take one of the Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve parts and use Scissors to cut "X" shapes near the ends of the sleeve. The center of the "X" cuts should be approx. 20mm from each edge.

Repeat the above step for all of the remaining Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve parts.

The Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve parts are complete.

Preheat the Soldering Iron to the operating temperature recommended by the Electrical Solder packaging.

Position the wires of two Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s) in the Helping Hands so that the exposed ends of the wires are touching.

Hold the hot end of the Soldering Iron against the exposed wires in the Helping Hands for a few seconds to heat the wires.

Apply Electrical Solder to the contact point between the hot end of the Soldering Iron and the exposed wires until enough has been added to fuse the wires and make a good electrical connection.

Remove the hot end of the Soldering Iron from the wires.

Wait for the wires to cool and then remove them from the Helping Hands.

Take the other wire of one of the previously soldered Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s) and position it in the Helping Hands.

Position one of the wires of the remaining Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s) in the unused side of the Helping Hands.

Hold the hot end of the Soldering Iron against the exposed wires in the Helping Hands for a few seconds to heat the wires.

Apply Electrical Solder to the contact point between the hot end of the Soldering Iron and the exposed wires until enough has been added to fuse the wires and make a good electrical connection.

Remove the hot end of the Soldering Iron from the wires.

Wait for the wires to cool and then remove them from the Helping Hands.

Using Paper Towels, remove a Halogen Lightbulb part(s) from its packaging material and insert it into one of the Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s). Be careful to not touch the Halogen Lightbulb with your hands (see precautions).

Repeat the above step for each of the other Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s)*.

The Halogen Lightbulb Assembly is now complete.

While following the Circular Saw manufacturer’s instructions, install the Cutoff Wheel into the Circular Saw.

Affix the Stock Length Metal Conduit into the Vise, leaving enough Stock Length Metal Conduit sticking out to make the cut.

Mark the 250mm length on the Stock Length Metal Conduit using the Measuring Tape and Permanent Marker. Make sure that there is enough space marked for the width of the cutting blade!

Using the Circular Saw, make the cut on the Stock Length Metal Conduit where previously marked.

Repeat the above steps for all of the needed lengths of Metal Conduit.

Align the Plate Jig to one of the corners of the Steel Sheet.

In each of the holes on the Plate Jig, mark a circle the size of the hole using the Permanent Marker.

Insert the 7mm Drill Bit into the chuck of the Drill Press and secure it tightly per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Turn on the drill press and drill holes through each of the marks made on the Steel Sheet in the earlier steps.

Using the Metal File, file down any metal burrs created by the Drill Press on the Steel Sheet.

Use the Welding Brush on the Steel Sheet to scrape off any surface impurities near the corners where the welds will occur.

Align the Plate Jig to one of the corners of the Steel Sheet.

In each of the holes on the Plate Jig, mark a circle the size of the hole using the Permanent Marker.

Using Vise Grip Pliers, secure a M6 x 25mm Screw over one of the Plate Jig circles drawn previously.

While wearing proper safety equipment, spot weld the M6 x 25mm Screw to the Steel Sheet using the Welder.

Repeat the above steps for the remaining Plate Jig marks until there are a total of four M6 x 25mm Screw part(s) in the locations indicated by the Plate Jig.

Clean off the welding marks on both sides of the Steel Sheet using the Welding Brush.

Slide one Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve part(s) over one Metal Conduit so that the Metal Conduit is in the middle of the Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve.

Repeat the above step for the three other pairs of Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve part(s) and Metal Conduit part(s).

Orient the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate so that the screws are on top.

Take one of the Metal Conduit / Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve part(s) and align the "X" cuts on the ends of the Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve with two bolts on the side of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Repeat the above step for all four sides of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Without touching the bulbs, place the Halogen Lightbulb Assembly onto the center of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Pull the wires of the Halogen Lightbulb Assembly out past one side of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate so that the wires can be reached in a later step.

Take four M6 Nut part(s) and screw one onto every screw on the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Position the Fast Heated Bed Bottom Plate onto the screws of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate. The Fast Heated Bed Bottom Plate should rest on top of the M6 Nut part(s) from the previous step.

Take four M6 Nut part(s) and screw one onto every screw on the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate above the Fast Heated Bed Bottom Plate. Tighten them down by hand; the final adjustment will take place later.

Gently flip the Fast Heated Bed Module over so that the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate is on top.

Take the PEI Sheet and peel away the corner of the covering of the adhesive side of the part

Align the exposed adhesive corner of the PEI Sheet with the machine cut side of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Apply even and gentle pressure to the PEI Sheet to begin to stick it to the surface of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

While keeping the edges aligned, peel back more of the adhesive covering and apply more even pressure across the surface of the PEI Sheet until the part is fully adheared.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the Universal Axis Motor Side part.

Gather all parts for the Universal Axis Motor Side Module.

Using the 1.5mm Allen Wrench, loosen the screw(s) on the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley and then slide the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley onto the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor with the thicker end of the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley going on first.

Gently tighten down the screw on the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley so it stays in place on the Nema 17 Stepper Motor shaft.

Insert the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor into the center hole of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the face of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor is flush with the face of the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Look through the slot on the side of the Universal Axis Motor Side to see if the teeth of the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley align with the slot. Repeat the above steps to make adjustments to the position of the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley until it is properly aligned with the slot.

Once the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley is aligned with the slot, remove the Nema 17 Stepper Motor from the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Firmly tighten down the screw on the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley using a 1.5mm Allen Wrench.

Insert two M6 Nut part(s) into the nut catchers on the face of the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Insert the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor into the center hole of the Universal Axis Motor Side and over the top of the M6 Nut part(s).

Turn the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the hole of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the mounting holes in the face of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor align with the holes in the Universal Axis Motor Side.

While holding the current Universal Axis Motor Side Module in one hand, turn the Universal Axis Motor Side Module over so that the other side of the Universal Axis Motor Side part is accessible.

Insert three M3 x 25mm Screw part(s) into the holes that are aligned with the mounting holes on the Nema 17 Stepper Motor.

Tighten down the M3 x 25mm Screw part(s) using a 2.5mm Allen Wrench. The M6 Nut part(s) should now be secure between the Nema 17 Stepper Motor and Universal Axis Motor Side.

Flip the Universal Axis Motor Side Module back over so that the Nema 17 Stepper Motor is on top.

Gently screw six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the holes on the Universal Axis Motor Side that run along the sides of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor. Only screw the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) in enough to hold them in place as other parts will be inserted into the holes below in a future step.

The Universal Axis Motor Side Module is now complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the Universal Axis Idler Side part.

Gather all parts for the Universal Axis Idler Side Module.

Take the two Flanged Bearing part(s) and orient them so that they are touching with the flanges on opposite sides.

Insert the Flanged Bearing part(s) into the slot of the Universal Axis Idler Side until they align with the hole in the center of the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Insert the M6 Nut into the nut holder above the hole that is aligned with the Flanged Bearing part(s).

Insert the M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the hole that aligns with the Flanged Bearing part(s).

Use the 5mm Allen Wrench to gently tighten the M6 x 20mm Screw.

Using the 3mm Allen Wrench, screw two M6 x 10mm Grub Screw into the holes on the face of the Universal Axis Idler Side. Only screw the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) in enough to hold them in place as other parts will be inserted into the holes below in a future step.

The Universal Axis Idler Side Module is now complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis X Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis X Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis X Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis X Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing toward the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis X Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. The final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

The Universal X Axis Module is complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing away from the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. The final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

The Universal Y1 Axis Module is complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing away from the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. The final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

Take two Linear Bearing part(s) and place them into the bearing holders on the **.

Loop one Small Zip Tie over each Linear Bearing part(s) and through the gap beneath the bearing holders to secure both Linear Bearing part(s) in place.

Pull each Small Zip Tie part(s) tight and cut off the excess Small Zip Tie material using Scissors.

The Universal Y2 Axis Module is complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Gather all parts for the Universal Z Axis Module.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Cut off any excess Painters Tape from the ends of the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Using the 3mm Allen Wrench, tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the *{parts.universal-axis-idler-side-assembly.quantityUnits}}.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while gently pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. Leave the M6 x 20mm Screw a little loose; the final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

The Universal Z Axis Module is complete.

Unpack required parts from bag.

Using the 2mm Allen Wrench, lightly screw the M3 x 10mm Cap Screw parts into the two threaded holes on the side of the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Using the 1.5mm Allen Wrench, lightly screw the M3 x 4mm Grub Screw into the single threaded hole on the side of the Volcano Style Heater Block. Be sure to leave enough room for the Thermistor Cartridge to be inserted later.

Insert the Heater Cartridge into the non-threaded hole in the Volcano Style Heater Block with the wires coming out of the end with an indent. Make sure the Heater Cartridge does not extend past the bottom of the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Insert the Thermistor Cartridge into the smaller hole on the Volcano Style Heater Block with the wires coming out of the same side as the previous step. Make sure the Thermistor Cartridge does not extend past the bottom of the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Screw down the M3 x 4mm Grub Screw part lightly using a 1.5mm Allen Wrench to fasten the Thermistor Cartridge, but very lightly as the part can go right through the Thermistor Cartridge.

Screw down the M3 x 10mm Cap Screw parts using a 2mm Allen Wrench, so that the Volcano Style Heater Block is secured. Do this evenly by screwing down one M3 x 10mm Cap Screw then the other and alternating four times.

Using a 7mm Socket Wrench, screw the Volcano Nozzle into the end of the Volcano Style Heater Block that does not have wires, until there is 1/2 of a thread (approximately 1mm) exposed.

Screw the short end of the Heat Break into the other side of the Volcano Style Heater Block until it bottoms out against the Volcano Nozzle.

Gently secure the Volcano Style Heater Block in the Metal Jaw Vise, leaving enough clearance to tighten down the Volcano Nozzle.

Attach the Heater Cartridge wires onto the output of the 24v Power Supply and power on the 24v Power Supply.

Wait two minutes for the Volcano Style Heater Block to get hot.

Using Needle Nose Pliers, hold the Heat Break in place while tightening down the Volcano Nozzle using the 7mm Socket Wrench. Make sure that the Volcano Nozzle bottoms out against the Heat Break, not against the Volcano Style Heater Block - the goal is to close the filament flow gap between the Volcano Nozzle and Heat Break.

Once tightened, turn off the 24v Power Supply.

Disconnect the Heater Cartridge from the 24v Power Supply.

Wait at least five minutes for the Volcano Style Heater Block to cool down to a temperature that is safe to touch.

Reposition the Volcano Style Heater Block in the Metal Jaw Vise so that the long end of the Heat Break is accessible to tools.

Screw the M6 Thin Nut onto the Heat Break until the M6 Thin Nut is near the gap on the Heat Break.

Apply one drop(s) of Thermal Paste to the threads of the Heat Break and spread the Thermal Paste evenly across the threads.

Bend the Heater Cartridge wires out of the way so you can screw on the heat sink. Hold the bottom of the Heater Cartridge wire with Needle Nose Pliers so that when the wires are bent down they won’t break from the Heater Cartridge.

Screw the Heatsink Block onto the Heat Break so that the Heat Break sticks out 2mm above the Heatsink Block.

Line up the wider sides of the Heatsink Block and the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Tighten the M6 Thin Nut against the Heatsink Block using Slip Joint Pliers.

Remove the Hot End Assembly from the Metal Jaw Vise.

Place the Volcano Style Heater Block Silicone Sock onto the Volcano Style Heater Block.

The Hot End Assembly is complete.

Clean off any extra plastic on the Motor Mount using a Hobby Knife.

Insert the M6 Nut into the slot in the middle of the Motor Mount.

Insert the Nema 17 Stepper Motor into the Motor Mount with the mounting holes on both parts lined up.

In the top right corner, use the 2.5mm Allen Wrench to screw an M3 x 8mm Screw through the Motor Mount and into the mounting hole on the Nema 17 Stepper Motor.

Clean off any extra plastic on the Secondary Extruder Part using a Hobby Knife.

Line up the Secondary Extruder Part with the mounting holes on the left side of the Motor Mount.

Using the 2.5mm Allen Wrench, screw an M3 x 8mm Screw into the furthest back mounting hole.

Insert the open end of the Blower Fan into the fan duct on the Secondary Extruder Part.

Using the 2.5mm Allen Wrench, screw two M3 x 20mm Screw part(s) into the mounting holes of the Blower Fan to mount it to the Secondary Extruder Part.

Use the 2.5mm Allen Wrench to screw M3 x 8mm Screw part(s) into the remaing open mounting holes in the Secondary Extruder Part.

Apply one drop(s) of Thermal Paste to the flat area between the mounting holes on the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Place two M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) into the mounting holes of the 40mm Heatsink Fins with the threads of the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) sticking out of the flat side of the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Orient the Hot End Assembly with the longer side on the right.

Insert the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) through the mounting holes of the Hot End Assembly. This should squish the Thermal Paste between the Hot End Assembly and the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Position the Hot End Assembly mounting holes against the bottom mounting holes of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount.

Lightly screw down the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) using the 2.5mm Allen Wrench to hold the Hot End Assembly against the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount, but not too hard as the position of the Hot End Assembly will be adjusted later.

Put the Filament Drive Gear on the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount. Do not tighten it down yet.

Insert the 1.75mm Filament into the top of the Hot End Assembly and align the Filament Drive Gear teeth with the 1.75mm Filament.

Tighten down the screw on the Filament Drive Gear using the 2mm Allen Wrench.

Using the 1.75mm Filament as a guide, tighten down the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) on the Hot End Assembly using a 2.5mm Allen Wrench. Make sure that the 1.75mm Filament is coming straight out of the top of the Hot End Assembly before tightening.

Clean off any extra plastic on the Spring Tensioner Arm using a Hobby Knife.

Press the 608 ZZ Bearing onto the peg on the Spring Tensioner Arm.

With the arm of the Spring Tensioner Arm pointing right, screw the Spring Tensioner Arm onto the top left mounting hole on the front of the Motor Mount using a M3 x 20mm Screw and a 2.5mm Allen Wrench.

Insert the Extruder Spring between the arm of the Spring Tensioner Arm and the mounting slot on the Motor Mount.

Hello World!

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw the M6 x 25mm Screw into the hole at the back of the slot on the left side of the Secondary Extruder Part.

Insert the Height Sensor into the slot.

Adjust the height of the Height Sensor so the bottom is 2mm above the bottom of the Secondary Extruder Part. When viewed from the side, the bottom of the Height Sensor should be above the nozzle.

Tighten the M6 x 25mm Screw only enough to hold the Secondary Extruder Part in place and not damage it.

Hello World!

Orient the 40mm Fan over the 40mm Heatsink Fins so that the fan will blow air toward the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Place the 40mm Fan directly over the front of the 40mm Heatsink Fins and screw it into place using two M3 x 16mm Screw part(s) and the 2.5mm Allen Wrench in the bottom mounting holes of the 40mm Fan. The screws will be held in the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Connect the 2 Meter Stepper Motor Cable to the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount. There should only be one cable orientation that fits in the Nema 17 Stepper Motor.

Bundle the Universal Gearless Extruder Module wires such that when looking at the front of the Universal Gearless Extruder Module, the wires are sent to the right hand side.

Use a Small Zip Tie to hold the wires together. Snip the extra Small Zip Tie with Scissors.

Take all 15 Universal Gearless Extruder Module wires and pull them through the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom.

Using Scissors cut the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom to 100mm shorter than the shortest cable.

Take any cables that are too long and double them back into the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom.

Use a Small Zip Tie to secure the loose end of the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom.

Using Scissors cut the extra length off of the Small Zip Tie part.

The Universal Gearless Extruder Module is complete.

Hello World!