D3D Pro 3D Printer Assembly Instructions

While following the Circular Saw manufacturer’s instructions, install the Cutoff Wheel into the Circular Saw.

Affix the Rebar Stake Stock Length into the Vise, leaving enough Rebar Stake Stock Length sticking out to make the cut.

Mark the 450mm length on the Rebar Stake Stock Length using the Measuring Tape and Permanent Marker. Make sure that there is enough space marked for the width of the Cutoff Wheel!

Using the Circular Saw, make the cut on the Rebar Stake Stock Length where previously marked.

Repeat the above steps for all of the needed lengths of Rebar Stake.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed parts.

Insert an M6 Thin Nut into the slot of the Corner Connector so that the hole of the M6 Thin Nut aligns with the hole in the Corner Connector.

While holding the M6 Thin Nut in place with a finger, insert an M6 x 20mm Screw into the hole of the Corner Connector.

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw in the M6 x 20mm Screw enough to hold the M6 x 20mm Screw and M6 Thin Nut in place. Leave room for the Rebar Stake to be inserted later.

Repeat the above steps for each of the three slots on the Corner Connector.

Repeat each of the above steps for the Corner Connector part(s), Left Corner Connector part(s), and Right Corner Connector part(s)

Insert one Rebar Stake into a slot on the Corner Connector.

Press the Rebar Stake down hard into the slot so that the part(s) are flush with the bottom of the slot. This step is important to ensure squareness in the frame.

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw down the M6 x 20mm Screw in against the Rebar Stake until it is tight. If the plastic of the Corner Connector begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

Insert the other end of the Rebar Stake into another Corner Connector and repeat the above steps to press and tighten down the Corner Connector.

Repeat the above steps so that there are two completed Rebar Stake part(s) with Corner Connector part(s) on the ends.

Insert two Rebar Stake part(s) into the completed Rebar Stake part(s) from the previous step so that a square is formed.

Press the square together hard to seat the Corner Connector part(s) onto the Rebar Stake part(s).

Tighten the four loose M6 x 20mm Screw part(s) down onto the Rebar Stake part(s) to complete the Universal Frame Module Base. As above, if the plastic of the Corner Connector part(s) begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

The Universal Frame Base is complete.

Orient the Left Corner Connector part(s) and Right Corner Connector part(s) so that they are all laying flat against the table. There should only be one orientation where the parts lay flat, and this orientation should be maintained throughout the following steps for the sake of clarity.

Organize the above parts such that the Left Corner Connector part(s) will be on opposite corners of the square that will be formed in later steps.

Perform the above step again for the Right Corner Connector part(s) to lay out the final orientation of the parts.

Insert one Rebar Stake into a side slot on a Left Corner Connector. Do not insert the Rebar Stake part(s) into the slot that is pointing up in this step.

Press the Rebar Stake hard into the slot so that the part(s) are flush with the bottom of the slot. This step is important to ensure squareness in the frame.

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw down the M6 x 20mm Screw in against the Rebar Stake until it is tight. If the plastic of the Left Corner Connector begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

Insert the other end of the Rebar Stake from the above steps into the corresponding Right Corner Connector and repeat the above steps to press and tighten down the Right Corner Connector.

Repeat the above steps so that there are two completed Rebar Stake part(s) with Left Corner Connector part(s) and Right Corner Connector part(s) on the ends.

Insert two Rebar Stake part(s) into the completed Rebar Stake part(s) from the previous step so that a square is formed.

Press the square together hard to seat the Left Corner Connector part(s) and Right Corner Connector part(s) onto the Rebar Stake part(s).

Tighten the four loose M6 x 20mm Screw part(s) down onto the Rebar Stake part(s). As above, if the plastic of the Left Corner Connector part(s) or Right Corner Connector part(s) begins to strain or crack, unscrew the M6 x 20mm Screw slightly to reduce the pressure.

The Universal Frame Top is complete.

Orient the Universal Frame Base so that the open slots point upward.

Insert the four Rebar Stake part(s) into the slots of the Universal Frame Base.

Firmly press each Rebar Stake part(s) into the Universal Frame Base so that they are flush with the bottom of the slots in the Universal Frame Base.

Tighten down all of the remaining fasteners on the Universal Frame Base to secure the Rebar Stake part(s) in place. If the plastic of the Universal Frame Base begins to strain or crack, unscrew the fastener slightly to reduce the pressure.

Orient the Universal Frame Top so that the open slots point upward.

Align the Universal Frame Top over the four Rebar Stake part(s) that are connected to the Universal Frame Base and press the Universal Frame Top onto the Rebar Stake part(s).

Firmly press the Universal Frame Top down onto the Universal Frame Base so that the Rebar Stake part(s) are properly seated.

Tighten down all of the remaining fasteners on the Universal Frame Top to secure the Universal Frame Top onto the Rebar Stake part(s). If the plastic of the Universal Frame Base begins to strain or crack, unscrew the fastener slightly to reduce the pressure.

The Universal Frame Module is complete.

Using the Scissors, cut four rectangles of Carbon Fiber Blanket to size (80mm x 300mm).

Set up the Sewing Machine and Sewing Thread by following the manufacturer’s instructions for the Sewing Machine.

Overlap/fold one rectangle of Carbon Fiber Blanket so that it forms a 40mm x 300mm rectangle.

Using the Sewing Machine, sew the 300mm long edges of the rectangle together. It should form a 300mm long sleeve.

Repeat the previous two steps for all of the remaining Carbon Fiber Blanket rectangles.

Take one of the Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve parts and use Scissors to cut "X" shapes near the ends of the sleeve. The center of the "X" cuts should be approx. 20mm from each edge.

Repeat the above step for all of the remaining Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve parts.

The Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve parts are complete.

If necessary, use the Wire Strippers/Cutters to strip the ends of all of the Halogen Lightbulb Holder wires.

Preheat the Soldering Iron to the operating temperature recommended by the Electrical Solder packaging.

Slide a Heat Shrink Tubing part(s) over one of the wires of a Halogen Lightbulb Holder.

Position one wire of one of the Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s) and the wire with Heat Shrink Tubing from the previous step in the Helping Hands so that the exposed ends of the wires are touching. It may help to twist the wires together so that they stay in place during soldering.

Make sure that the Heat Shrink Tubing is out of the way of the exposed wire.

Hold the hot end of the Soldering Iron against the exposed wires in the Helping Hands for a few seconds to heat the wires.

Apply Electrical Solder to the contact point between the hot end of the Soldering Iron and the exposed wires until enough has been added to fuse the wires and make a good electrical connection.

Once the Electrical Solder has been applied, set the Electrical Solder aside and continue to hold the soldering iron to the soldered wires for a few seconds to allow the solder to flow up the wires.

Remove the hot end of the Soldering Iron from the wires.

Wait for the wires to cool and then remove them from the Helping Hands.

Slide the Heat Shrink Tubing across the soldered area and use a Heat Source to shrink the Heat Shrink Tubing over the wires.

Take the other wire of one of the previously soldered Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s), slide a Heat Shrink Tubing part(s) onto the wire, and position it in the Helping Hands.

Position one of the wires of the remaining Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s) in the unused side of the Helping Hands.

Hold the hot end of the Soldering Iron against the exposed wires in the Helping Hands for a few seconds to heat the wires.

Apply Electrical Solder to the contact point between the hot end of the Soldering Iron and the exposed wires until enough has been added to fuse the wires and make a good electrical connection.

Once the Electrical Solder has been applied, set the Electrical Solder aside and continue to hold the soldering iron to the soldered wires for a few seconds to allow the solder to flow up the wires.

Remove the hot end of the Soldering Iron from the wires.

Wait for the wires to cool and then remove them from the Helping Hands.

Cut two pieces of the Carbon Fiber Blanket to size (75mm x 75mm) using Scissors.

Wrap one piece of the Carbon Fiber Blanket over one of the Heat Shrink Tubing part(s).

Use two Metal Zip Tie part(s) to secure each end of the Carbon Fiber Blanket part(s). This should fully cover the Heat Shrink Tubing.

Perform the above steps again over the remaining Heat Shrink Tubing part(s).

Optionally, cut the excess Metal Zip Tie off using Wire Strippers/Cutters.

Using Paper Towels, remove a Halogen Lightbulb part(s) from its packaging material and insert it into one of the Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s). Be careful to not touch the Halogen Lightbulb with your hands (see precautions).

Repeat the above step for each of the other Halogen Lightbulb Holder part(s)*.

The Halogen Lightbulb Assembly is now complete.

While following the Circular Saw manufacturer’s instructions, install the Cutoff Wheel into the Circular Saw.

Affix the Stock Length Metal Conduit into the Vise, leaving enough Stock Length Metal Conduit sticking out to make the cut.

Mark the 250mm length on the Stock Length Metal Conduit using the Measuring Tape and Permanent Marker. Make sure that there is enough space marked for the width of the cutting blade!

Using the Circular Saw, make the cut on the Stock Length Metal Conduit where previously marked.

Repeat the above steps for all of the needed lengths of Metal Conduit.

Align the Plate Jig to one of the corners of the Steel Sheet.

In each of the holes on the Plate Jig, mark a circle the size of the hole using the Permanent Marker.

Insert the 7mm Drill Bit into the chuck of the Drill Press and secure it tightly per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Turn on the drill press and drill holes through each of the marks made on the Steel Sheet in the earlier steps.

Using the Metal File, file down any metal burrs created by the Drill Press on the Steel Sheet.

Use the Welding Brush on the Steel Sheet to scrape off any surface impurities near the corners where the welds will occur.

Align the Plate Jig to one of the corners of the Steel Sheet.

In each of the holes on the Plate Jig, mark a circle the size of the hole using the Permanent Marker.

Using Vise Grip Pliers, secure a M6 x 25mm Screw over one of the Plate Jig circles drawn previously.

While wearing proper safety equipment, spot weld the M6 x 25mm Screw to the Steel Sheet using the Welder.

Repeat the above steps for the remaining Plate Jig marks until there are a total of four M6 x 25mm Screw part(s) in the locations indicated by the Plate Jig.

Clean off the welding marks on both sides of the Steel Sheet using the Welding Brush.

Slide one Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve part(s) over one Metal Conduit so that the Metal Conduit is in the middle of the Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve.

Repeat the above step for the three other pairs of Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve part(s) and Metal Conduit part(s).

Orient the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate so that the screws are on top.

Take one of the Metal Conduit / Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve part(s) and align the "X" cuts on the ends of the Carbon Fiber Blanket Sleeve with two bolts on the side of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Repeat the above step for all four sides of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Without touching the bulbs, place the Halogen Lightbulb Assembly onto the center of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Pull the wires of the Halogen Lightbulb Assembly out past one side of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate so that the wires can be reached in a later step.

Take four M6 Nut part(s) and screw one onto every screw on the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Position the Fast Heated Bed Bottom Plate onto the screws of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate. The Fast Heated Bed Bottom Plate should rest on top of the M6 Nut part(s) from the previous step.

Take four M6 Nut part(s) and screw one onto every screw on the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate above the Fast Heated Bed Bottom Plate. Tighten them down by hand; the final adjustment will take place later.

Gently flip the Fast Heated Bed Module over so that the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate is on top.

Take the PEI Sheet and peel away the corner of the covering of the adhesive side of the part

Align the exposed adhesive corner of the PEI Sheet with the machine cut side of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

Apply even and gentle pressure to the PEI Sheet to begin to stick it to the surface of the Fast Heated Bed Top Plate.

While keeping the edges aligned, peel back more of the adhesive covering and apply more even pressure across the surface of the PEI Sheet until the part is fully adheared.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the Universal Axis Motor Side part.

Gather all parts for the Universal Axis Motor Side Module.

Using the 1.5mm Allen Wrench, loosen the screw(s) on the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley and then slide the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley onto the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor with the thicker end of the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley going on first.

Gently tighten down the screw on the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley so it stays in place on the Nema 17 Stepper Motor shaft.

Insert the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor into the center hole of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the face of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor is flush with the face of the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Look through the slot on the side of the Universal Axis Motor Side to see if the teeth of the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley align with the slot. Repeat the above steps to make adjustments to the position of the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley until it is properly aligned with the slot.

Once the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley is aligned with the slot, remove the Nema 17 Stepper Motor from the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Firmly tighten down the screw on the GT2 20 Tooth Pulley using a 1.5mm Allen Wrench.

Insert two M6 Nut part(s) into the nut catchers on the face of the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Insert the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor into the center hole of the Universal Axis Motor Side and over the top of the M6 Nut part(s).

Turn the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the hole of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the mounting holes in the face of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor align with the holes in the Universal Axis Motor Side.

While holding the current Universal Axis Motor Side Module in one hand, turn the Universal Axis Motor Side Module over so that the other side of the Universal Axis Motor Side part is accessible.

Insert three M3 x 25mm Screw part(s) into the holes that are aligned with the mounting holes on the Nema 17 Stepper Motor.

Tighten down the M3 x 25mm Screw part(s) using a 2.5mm Allen Wrench. The M6 Nut part(s) should now be secure between the Nema 17 Stepper Motor and Universal Axis Motor Side.

Flip the Universal Axis Motor Side Module back over so that the Nema 17 Stepper Motor is on top.

Gently screw six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the holes on the Universal Axis Motor Side that run along the sides of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor. Only screw the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) in enough to hold them in place as other parts will be inserted into the holes below in a future step.

The Universal Axis Motor Side Module is now complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the Universal Axis Idler Side part.

Gather all parts for the Universal Axis Idler Side Module.

Take the two Flanged Bearing part(s) and orient them so that they are touching with the flanges on opposite sides.

Insert the Flanged Bearing part(s) into the slot of the Universal Axis Idler Side until they align with the hole in the center of the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Insert the M6 Nut into the nut holder above the hole that is aligned with the Flanged Bearing part(s).

Insert the M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the hole that aligns with the Flanged Bearing part(s).

Use the 5mm Allen Wrench to gently tighten the M6 x 20mm Screw.

Using the 3mm Allen Wrench, screw two M6 x 10mm Grub Screw into the holes on the face of the Universal Axis Idler Side. Only screw the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) in enough to hold them in place as other parts will be inserted into the holes below in a future step.

The Universal Axis Idler Side Module is now complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis X Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis X Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis X Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis X Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing toward the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis X Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis X Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. The final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

The Universal X Axis Module is complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing away from the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis Y1 Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. The final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

The Universal Y1 Axis Module is complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing away from the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis Y2 Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. The final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

Take two Linear Bearing part(s) and place them into the bearing holders on the **.

Loop one Small Zip Tie over each Linear Bearing part(s) and through the gap beneath the bearing holders to secure both Linear Bearing part(s) in place.

Pull each Small Zip Tie part(s) tight and cut off the excess Small Zip Tie material using Scissors.

The Universal Y2 Axis Module is complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Gather all parts for the Universal Z Axis Module.

Slide two Linear Bearing part(s) onto the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Use the Painters Tape to evenly cover the Linear Bearing part(s) with around five layers of Painters Tape. Do this by applying the tape to both Linear Bearing part(s) and then rotating the part(s) on the 8mm Smooth Rod until enough Painters Tape is applied.

Remove the Linear Bearing part(s) from the 8mm Smooth Rod.

Cut off any excess Painters Tape from the ends of the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors.

Remove some Painters Tape from the Linear Bearing part(s) using Scissors until the part(s) can fit into the holes of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Test the fit of the Linear Bearing part(s) by covering the open end of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side with the Carriage Closure and then shaking the part. If the Linear Bearing part(s) move around inside of the Carriage Closure then the fit is too loose and more Painters Tape must be added to the Linear Bearing part(s).

Repeat the above step until the Linear Bearing part(s) fit into the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side without moving during the shake test.

Repeat all of the above steps for the other two Linear Bearing part(s).

Orient the Carriage Closure over the opening of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side so that the three mounting holes on the Carriage Closure line up with the mounting holes on the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side. The flat side of the Carriage Closure should be facing away from the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side and the side with the indents for the Linear Bearing part(s) should be facing toward the opening of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Fix the Carriage Closure in place by using a 5mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 20mm Screw into the center hole of the Carriage Closure.

Orient the Universal Axis Motor Side such that the section of the stepper motor that hangs off of the Universal Axis Motor Side is pointing left.

Insert two 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) into the right side of the Universal Axis Motor Side until the part(s) are flush with the left face of the plastic part.

Using the 3mm Allen Wrench, tighten down all six M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Motor Side. This should fix the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) in place.

Slide the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) with the Carriage Closure facing the Universal Axis Motor Side.

Slide the Universal Axis Idler Side onto the 8mm Smooth Rod part(s) such that the larger opening on the Universal Axis Idler Side faces the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) on the Universal Axis Idler Side to hold the Universal Axis Idler Side in place. The final position of the Universal Axis Idler Side will be adjusted in a later step.

Take the GT2 Belt and make a loop on one end with the teeth of the belt locking into one another.

Insert the loop into the side of the Belt Peg and use a 3mm Allen Wrench to screw a M6 x 10mm Grub Screw part(s) into the loop.

Thread the other end of the GT2 Belt through one of the openings on the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side that is closer to the Universal Axis Idler Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Motor Side, around the pulley, and back through the module.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the open slot in the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt through the Universal Axis Idler Side, around the bearings, and back through the *{parts.universal-axis-idler-side-assembly.quantityUnits}}.

Thread the end of the GT2 Belt back through the first slot of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side. Make sure that the GT2 Belt goes around the Belt Peg part in such a way that the part is positioned on the inside of the GT2 Belt.

Find the section of GT2 Belt that overlaps itself. This section will be coming out of the first slot of the Universal Axis Z Carriage Side.

Take a Belt Pinch part and, while gently pulling the GT2 Belt tight by hand, slide the part over both sections of GT2 Belt.

Place a M6 Nut in the nut catcher of the Belt Pinch.

Push a M6 x 20mm Screw through the other side of the Belt Pinch. The part(s) may need to be wiggled while being pushed in.

Gently tighten down the M6 x 20mm Screw through the M6 Nut with a 5mm Allen Wrench. Leave the M6 x 20mm Screw a little loose; the final belt tension will be adjusted in a later step.

The Universal Z Axis Module is complete.

Use the Hobby Knife to clean any extra plastic off of the 3D printed components.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, cut one 100mm long piece of Red 22AWG Wire and one 100mm long piece of Black 22AWG Wire.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, strip approximately 1cm of insulation off of both ends of the Red 22AWG Wire and Black 22AWG Wire.

Place an appropriately sized Ferrule onto the end of the stripped Red 22AWG Wire.

Using the Ferrule Crimper, crimp the Ferrule onto the wire.

Use the Wire Strippers/Cutters to cut off any excess Red 22AWG Wire that is poking through the end of the Ferrule.

Repeat the above steps to crimp another Ferrule to the end of the Black 22AWG Wire.

Using the Dupont Crimper, crimp Dupont Female Pin Connector part(s) onto the exposed ends of the Red 22AWG Wire and Black 22AWG Wire.

Insert the both of the Dupont Female Pin Connector ends of the Red 22AWG Wire and Black 22AWG Wire into a 2 Pin Female Dupont Connector.

The RAMPS 1.4 Board to RAMPS 1.4 Board 24v Power Custom Wires are complete.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, cut one 200mm long piece of Red 22AWG Wire and one 200mm long piece of Black 22AWG Wire.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, strip approximately 1cm of insulation off of both ends of each of the Red 22AWG Wire and Black 22AWG Wire lengths.

Place an appropriately sized Ferrule onto one end of each of the stripped Red 22AWG Wire and Black 22AWG Wire lengths.

Using the Ferrule Crimper, crimp the Ferrule part(s) onto the Red 22AWG Wire and Black 22AWG Wire.

Use the Wire Strippers/Cutters to cut off any excess Red 22AWG Wire or Black 22AWG Wire that is poking through the ends of the Ferrule part(s).

Use the Dupont Crimper to crimp on appropriately sized Fork Terminal part(s) to the exposed ends of each Red 22AWG Wire and Black 22AWG Wire.

The RAMPS 1.4 Board to Solid State Relay (SSR) 24v Signal Custom Wires are complete.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, cut two 200mm long pieces of Red 22AWG Wire and one 200mm long piece of Black 22AWG Wire.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, cut one 750mm long piece of Red 22AWG Wire and one 750mm long piece of Black 22AWG Wire.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, strip 20mm of insulation off of each end of the 22AWG Wire length(s) from the above steps.

Using the Dupont Crimper, crimp one Fork Terminal onto one end of each of the above 22AWG Wire length(s).

Using the Dupont Crimper, crimp one Fork Terminal onto the bare end of one of the 200mm Red 22AWG Wire mm. Set this wire aside as it is completed.

Preheat the Soldering Iron to the temperature recommended on the Electrical Solder packaging.

Use the Helping Hands to clamp in place the bare end of one of the remaining 22AWG Wire length(s).

Use the tip of the Soldering Iron to heat the bare end of the clamped 22AWG Wire length(s) for a few seconds.

Apply enough Electrical Solder to the contact point of the Soldering Iron and the clamped 22AWG Wire to bind together the strands of bare 22AWG Wire.

Remove the Electrical Solder and the end of the Soldering Iron from the 22AWG Wire.

Repeat the above steps for each of the remaining 22AWG Wire length(s).

The Two Prong Electrical Plug and Solid State Relay (SSR) 120v Power Custom Wires are complete.

Using the Wire Strippers/Cutters, cut one 200mm long piece of Red 22AWG Wire and one 200mm long piece of Black 22AWG Wire.

Use the Wire Strippers/Cutters to strip away 20mm of insulation from both ends of the above 22AWG Wire length(s).

Use the Dupont Crimper to crimp a Fork Terminal part(s) to one end of each 22AWG Wire.

Preheat the Soldering Iron to the temperature recommended on the Electrical Solder packaging.

Use the Helping Hands to clamp in place the bare end of one of the 22AWG Wire length(s).

Use the tip of the Soldering Iron to heat the bare end of the clamped 22AWG Wire length(s) for a few seconds.

Apply enough Electrical Solder to the contact point of the Soldering Iron and the clamped 22AWG Wire to bind together the strands of bare 22AWG Wire.

Remove the Electrical Solder and the end of the Soldering Iron from the 22AWG Wire.

Repeat the above steps for the soldering the remaining 22AWG Wire length(s).

Put the heatsinks on the drivers.

Put the (CORRECTLY ORIENTED) drivers into the RAMPS.

Align the RAMPS and Mega and press together.

Insert the smart adapter into the RAMPS.

Done

TODO

Plug the arduino into the PC with a USB cable.

Download the most recent firmware from the D3D Pro firmware repo.

Download and install Arduino IDE

Load the firmware into the Arduino IDE

Select your board from the boards menu at the top.

Click upload and wait for it to upload.

When it says 'Done Uploading' you’re done.

TODO

Download the raspberry pi imager.

Navigate to OctoPi

Insert the MicroSD card into the adapter.

Insert the adapter into your personal computer.

If using Wifi and not an ethernet connection, go into more details

Select the wireless networking option and put in your wifi credentials.

use the imager to download and flash the octopi image to the MicroSD card.

TODO

Hello World!

TODO

Hello World!

TODO

Zip tie the Mega/RAMPS

Zip tie power supply module

Zip tie the raspberry pie

Zip tie the SSR

Zip tie the GFCI

Insert the rocker switch into the side of the case

TODO

Take the power supply cable and strip back 4-6cm of sheathing.

Extend one of the power wires (not ground) with 200mm of wire.

Bring the extended power wire into the case through the bottom right hole.

Solder the inline fuse onto the extended power wire (still not ground).

Solder the inline fuse to one of the tongs of the rocker switch.

Solder a 200mm extension wire onto the other tong of the rocker switch.

Solder the ends of the remaining exposed hot wires (not ground) to tin them.

Route the second extension wire back out of the case.

Connect the extension wire into one of the screw terminals on the back of the GFCI.

Connect the second wire onto the other screw terminal on the back of the GFCI.

Use the Dupont crimper to crimp a fork terminal onto the end of the green ground wire

Connect the ground wire onto the ground connection on the side of the GFCI.

Loop all of the exposed terminals in multiple layers of electrical tape.

Done with GFCI.

TODO

Gather one long SSR power wire, one short SSR power wire, and both of the 24V power supply wires.

Connect the short SSR wire and one of the 24v power supply wires to the left terminal inside of the plug.

Connect the long ssr wire and the other 24V power supply wire to the right terminal inside of the plug.

Close the plug.

If the wire prevents the plug from closing, use a hobby knife to cut away at the offending plastic inside of the plug.

Once the plug closes properly, screw the plug together snugly.

Wrap the plug neatly in electrical tape.

Done with the electical plug.

TODO

Take one of the bare ends of wire from the electrical plug 24v power supply wires and twist it to straighten and bind together the wire strands.

Repeat the above step for the other bare end wire.

Depress the power module 120V power terminal levers and insert one of the bare wire ends into each of the terminal slots. Make sure that there are NO loose strands sticking out of the terminals.

Loosen the screws in the 24v outlet terminals.

Next, insert the ferruled ends of the 22AWG wire into the 24V outlet terminals.

Screw down the screws in the 24V outlet terminals.

The 24v power supply is done.

TODO

Wire the forked terminal end of the SSR short wire in the electrical plug into the right side of the 120V side of the SSR.

Wire the colored 24v signal wires (22awg) into their respective positive and negative position on the solid state relay.

Insert the forked end of the long SSR wire into the left side terminal of the 120v side of the SSR.

Tighten down all of the terminal screws.

The SSR is done.

TODO

Plug the power supply into the GFCI.

Plug the USB C end of the power supply into the USB C port on the Raspberry Pi

Plug the USB A end of the USB A/USB B cable into the Raspberry Pi

Plug the USB camera into one of the available USB A ports on the Raspberry pi.

The Raspberry Pi is now wired.

TODO

Plug the USB B end of the USB A/USB B cable (connected to the raspberry pi) into the USB B port.

Connect the ferrule ends of the RAMPS 1.4 Board to RAMPS 1.4 Board 24v Power Custom Wires to the bottom left terminals, paying close attention to the polarity.

Plug the 2-pin-dupont-connector end of the RAMPS 1.4 Board to RAMPS 1.4 Board 24v Power Custom Wires into the bottom left ports of the Aux 1 pins on the RAMPS board, with positive on the left and negative on the right.

Plug in the 24v power supply cables into their port, paying attention to the polarity.

Plug in the SSR signal wires into the heated bed port, paying attention to the polarity.

To be continued

TODO

Hello World!

TODO

Follow the Circular Saw manufacturer’s instructions to safely attach a Metal Cutting Wheel part to the Circular Saw.

Secure the Aluminum Stock part in the Vise with most of the Aluminum Stock hanging out of the side of the Vise.

Use a Measuring Tape and a Permanent Marker to mark a 50mm cut from the end of the Aluminum Stock part. Make sure to leave enough room for the width of the Metal Cutting Wheel on the Circular Saw.

While taking all appropriate precautions, use the Circular Saw to make the cut from the previous step.

After the part cools from the cut, remove the remaining Aluminum Stock from the Vise and set it aside.

If necessary, use the Metal File to remove burrs from the edges of the 50mm Aluminum Stock part.

Bring the 50mm Aluminum Stock part from the previous step to the location of the Drill Press.

While following the manufacturer’s instructions for the Drill Press, securely install the 5mm Drill Bit into the Drill Press.

Align the Heatsink Block Jig over the 50mm Aluminum Stock part.

Use the mounting tools included with the drill press (or a suitable alternative) to secure the 50mm Aluminum Stock part in place for the first hole to be drilled.

While taking every necessary precaution, turn on the drill press and use it to drill the hole through the 50mm Aluminum Stock part.

Repeat the above steps for all three holes that need to be drilled into the Universal Gearless Extruder Heatsink Block.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, install the M6 tap into the Tap Handle.

Secure the Universal Gearless Extruder Heatsink Block in the jaws of the Vise with the widest side of the Universal Gearless Extruder Heatsink Block facing up. The smallest hole should be accessible from the top.

Using the Tap Handle and the M6 tap, begin to tap the hole.

For best results, unscrew the M6 tap periodically while tapping the Universal Gearless Extruder Heatsink Block. This allows the metal shavings to fall out of the way.

Once the hole is fully tapped, use the Metal File to remove any excess metal from the Universal Gearless Extruder Heatsink Block.

The Universal Gearless Extruder Heatsink Block is now complete.

Unpack required parts from bag.

Using the 2mm Allen Wrench, lightly screw the M3 x 10mm Cap Screw parts into the two threaded holes on the side of the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Using the 1.5mm Allen Wrench, lightly screw the M3 x 4mm Grub Screw into the single threaded hole on the side of the Volcano Style Heater Block. Be sure to leave enough room for the Thermistor Cartridge to be inserted later.

Insert the Heater Cartridge into the non-threaded hole in the Volcano Style Heater Block with the wires coming out of the end with an indent. Make sure the Heater Cartridge does not extend past the bottom of the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Insert the Thermistor Cartridge into the smaller hole on the Volcano Style Heater Block with the wires coming out of the same side as the previous step. Make sure the Thermistor Cartridge does not extend past the bottom of the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Screw down the M3 x 4mm Grub Screw part lightly using a 1.5mm Allen Wrench to fasten the Thermistor Cartridge, but very lightly as the part can go right through the Thermistor Cartridge.

Screw down the M3 x 10mm Cap Screw parts using a 2mm Allen Wrench, so that the Volcano Style Heater Block is secured. Do this evenly by screwing down one M3 x 10mm Cap Screw then the other and alternating four times.

Using a 7mm Socket Wrench, screw the Volcano Nozzle into the end of the Volcano Style Heater Block that does not have wires, until there is 1/2 of a thread (approximately 1mm) exposed.

Screw the short end of the Heat Break into the other side of the Volcano Style Heater Block until it bottoms out against the Volcano Nozzle.

Gently secure the Volcano Style Heater Block in the Metal Jaw Vise, leaving enough clearance to tighten down the Volcano Nozzle.

Attach the Heater Cartridge wires onto the output of the 24v Power Supply and power on the 24v Power Supply.

Wait two minutes for the Volcano Style Heater Block to get hot.

Using Needle Nose Pliers, hold the Heat Break in place while tightening down the Volcano Nozzle using the 7mm Socket Wrench. Make sure that the Volcano Nozzle bottoms out against the Heat Break, not against the Volcano Style Heater Block - the goal is to close the filament flow gap between the Volcano Nozzle and Heat Break.

Once tightened, turn off the 24v Power Supply.

Disconnect the Heater Cartridge from the 24v Power Supply.

Wait at least five minutes for the Volcano Style Heater Block to cool down to a temperature that is safe to touch.

Reposition the Volcano Style Heater Block in the Metal Jaw Vise so that the long end of the Heat Break is accessible to tools.

Screw the M6 Thin Nut onto the Heat Break until the M6 Thin Nut is near the gap on the Heat Break.

Apply one drop(s) of Thermal Paste to the threads of the Heat Break and spread the Thermal Paste evenly across the threads.

Bend the Heater Cartridge wires out of the way so you can screw on the heat sink. Hold the bottom of the Heater Cartridge wire with Needle Nose Pliers so that when the wires are bent down they won’t break from the Heater Cartridge.

Screw the Heatsink Block onto the Heat Break so that the Heat Break sticks out 2mm above the Heatsink Block.

Line up the wider sides of the Heatsink Block and the Volcano Style Heater Block.

Tighten the M6 Thin Nut against the Heatsink Block using Slip Joint Pliers.

Remove the Hot End Assembly from the Metal Jaw Vise.

Place the Volcano Style Heater Block Silicone Sock onto the Volcano Style Heater Block.

The Hot End Assembly is complete.

Clean off any extra plastic on the Motor Mount using a Hobby Knife.

Insert the M6 Nut into the slot in the middle of the Motor Mount.

Insert the Nema 17 Stepper Motor into the Motor Mount with the mounting holes on both parts lined up.

In the top right corner, use the 2.5mm Allen Wrench to screw an M3 x 8mm Screw through the Motor Mount and into the mounting hole on the Nema 17 Stepper Motor.

Clean off any extra plastic on the Secondary Extruder Part using a Hobby Knife.

Line up the Secondary Extruder Part with the mounting holes on the left side of the Motor Mount.

Using the 2.5mm Allen Wrench, screw an M3 x 8mm Screw into the furthest back mounting hole.

Insert the open end of the Blower Fan into the fan duct on the Secondary Extruder Part.

Using the 2.5mm Allen Wrench, screw two M3 x 20mm Screw part(s) into the mounting holes of the Blower Fan to mount it to the Secondary Extruder Part.

Use the 2.5mm Allen Wrench to screw M3 x 8mm Screw part(s) into the remaing open mounting holes in the Secondary Extruder Part.

Apply one drop(s) of Thermal Paste to the flat area between the mounting holes on the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Place two M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) into the mounting holes of the 40mm Heatsink Fins with the threads of the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) sticking out of the flat side of the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Orient the Hot End Assembly with the longer side on the right.

Insert the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) through the mounting holes of the Hot End Assembly. This should squish the Thermal Paste between the Hot End Assembly and the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Position the Hot End Assembly mounting holes against the bottom mounting holes of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount.

Lightly screw down the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) using the 2.5mm Allen Wrench to hold the Hot End Assembly against the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount, but not too hard as the position of the Hot End Assembly will be adjusted later.

Put the Filament Drive Gear on the shaft of the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount. Do not tighten it down yet.

Insert the 1.75mm Filament into the top of the Hot End Assembly and align the Filament Drive Gear teeth with the 1.75mm Filament.

Tighten down the screw on the Filament Drive Gear using the 2mm Allen Wrench.

Using the 1.75mm Filament as a guide, tighten down the M3 x 30mm Screw part(s) on the Hot End Assembly using a 2.5mm Allen Wrench. Make sure that the 1.75mm Filament is coming straight out of the top of the Hot End Assembly before tightening.

Clean off any extra plastic on the Spring Tensioner Arm using a Hobby Knife.

Press the 608 ZZ Bearing onto the peg on the Spring Tensioner Arm.

With the arm of the Spring Tensioner Arm pointing right, screw the Spring Tensioner Arm onto the top left mounting hole on the front of the Motor Mount using a M3 x 20mm Screw and a 2.5mm Allen Wrench.

Insert the Extruder Spring between the arm of the Spring Tensioner Arm and the mounting slot on the Motor Mount.

Hello World!

Using the 5mm Allen Wrench, screw the M6 x 25mm Screw into the hole at the back of the slot on the left side of the Secondary Extruder Part.

Insert the Height Sensor into the slot.

Adjust the height of the Height Sensor so the bottom is 2mm above the bottom of the Secondary Extruder Part. When viewed from the side, the bottom of the Height Sensor should be above the nozzle.

Tighten the M6 x 25mm Screw only enough to hold the Secondary Extruder Part in place and not damage it.

Hello World!

Orient the 40mm Fan over the 40mm Heatsink Fins so that the fan will blow air toward the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Place the 40mm Fan directly over the front of the 40mm Heatsink Fins and screw it into place using two M3 x 16mm Screw part(s) and the 2.5mm Allen Wrench in the bottom mounting holes of the 40mm Fan. The screws will be held in the 40mm Heatsink Fins.

Connect the 2 Meter Stepper Motor Cable to the Nema 17 Stepper Motor in the Motor Mount. There should only be one cable orientation that fits in the Nema 17 Stepper Motor.

Bundle the Universal Gearless Extruder Module wires such that when looking at the front of the Universal Gearless Extruder Module, the wires are sent to the right hand side.

Use a Small Zip Tie to hold the wires together. Snip the extra Small Zip Tie with Scissors.

Take all 15 Universal Gearless Extruder Module wires and pull them through the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom.

Using Scissors cut the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom to 100mm shorter than the shortest cable.

Take any cables that are too long and double them back into the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom.

Use a Small Zip Tie to secure the loose end of the 2 Meter Split Wire Loom.

Using Scissors cut the extra length off of the Small Zip Tie part.

The Universal Gearless Extruder Module is complete.

TODO

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